Well as you can see I am in the big waves here. SURF IS UP. WAAAAAY UP.
We are getting what is known as the Pineapple Express. This is when storms come up from either Mexico or mostly from Hawaii and we get huge waves. This picture of me in water is from Monday. All the professional surfers and body boarders were out enjoying the big waves.
Here in Laguna we have professional full time lifeguards who do not let anyone in the water when the big waves hit unless you are really professional.
You have to wear fins and a life vest. It can get really dangerous unless you know what you are doing.
Here some surfing terms:
Hang ten - it meant to put all ten of your toes on the outside of you surf
board and grip the board with your feet.
Toes on the nose. - ride the board in the front and and hold it with your
toes.
Grom - a surfer under the age of ten
Gnarley - same as 'wicked' in Massachusetts.
Sending love and hugs from Southern California,
Bubbles.
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